I began following these 3 Indonesian surfers on the water, hoping to understand more clearly what I needed to do in order to improve my surf. As I attempted to catch the waves I felt this sense of urgency to excel. Yes the obsessive over achiever in me wants to rush the process.
Fortunate for me despite moving quickly with this business I am calm about its progression I have complete faith that it will excel commercially even faster then I imagined. But as I look to the surfers having a play on the waves I long to reach that level if not exceed it.
But in my heart I know that surfing may be a bit like yoga. You can not rush your postures and flexibility. One must practise regularly have patience and exist in that moment. In time before you know it the level of competency will automatically increase. We must be patient with ourselves in all things. Life is not a sprint it is an ultra run with many courses and challenges. If we push too hard too fast we will injure ourselves. If we are calm and collected with a clear direction, we can glide smoothly through the course almost untouched by the elements.
I need to learn to love the development process, in order to progress as a person and in my surf.