Learning to surf is such an interesting activity, as in life you have to be fully committed and present. Instead of watching too much, you just have to feel when the moment is right. That’s when you have to leap to your feet and settle into position. If you wait too long you miss that moment and the wave passes you by.
My friend Maria told me ‘when you learn to surf don’t hold tight to the board’, I guess it is easy to hold on to something that feels safe. But by holding on you are unable to move quickly and your thoughts take over.
Let go of the fear and allow for movement and change, merely adjust your balance in order to keep the ride.
Its a shame my friends didn’t video because I stood up in my first go and seemed to catch on quick. I am so happy with my decision to take the day off and chill out. Life is too short to forget to be spontaneous! You never know where the day can take you. I embraced a new hobby and made some great friends on the beach. I was even lucky enough to find a new place to stay. After all I can’t live in a hotel forever.
Another Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AULWr5dEDQ